TRAVEL DIARY

A weblog regularly updated by Jodi Rose.

Saturday, November 5, 2005

6:23 AM
Posted by jodi rose

the lighting is from original 1895 design

sending files of my first audio recordings on the bridge to monique for her program at retort project space in amsterdam. a bit late, it opens at 18:00 today but hopefully in time for the next weeks.

http://www.retortproject.nl/projecten/agenda.htm

this is monique's online journal which includes her time as bridge guard - fascinating reading which gave me some insight into the place before arriving - although of course each experience is very different.

http://www.bridgeguard.blogspot.com/

so this morning I found my way to the vadas thermal baths, and ohmigod am i glad the hot water wasn't working in the flat. or I might not have got round to going there for weeks - and it is magnificent!

http://www.vadas.sk/
click on B A Z É N Y top left hand menu
then scroll down to Sedací
absolutely lush 36 degree thermal waters
shaped like an ear with inner circle of curved seats
surrounded by pine trees and view of the basilica
very quiet, only one group of 4 older folks, a young couple and two kids splashing around - could get seriously addicted to this
it's open all winter, just the one bath and swimming pool - everything else is emptied out and deserted - amazing atmosphere
planning to go hang out there when it's snowing
and really enjoy the steam rising up from the water

later this afternoon had my first experience going onto the bridge
walked the way i had yesterday and wondered why there was a set of stairs completely enclosed - maybe it's a hotel or private building
then when I got onto the bridge, found the border guards are right at the start, on the sturovo side - wouldn't let me walk across on the left hand path, I had to cross over to the right.
again, they do both borders at once, so the slovakian border guard took my passport away, scrutinised it for a few minutes, clicked on some big coloured buttons in a strange machine, stamped it - then handed it on to the blue-clad hungarian border guards - who disappeared into their little room for much longer - but eventually gave me the all-clear. While I stood gazing up at the bridge in considerable anxiety - even though I've done nothing wrong, that level of authority makes me inherently anxious. Maybe it's coming from the convict colony of australia, or just not being European.
It's not an experience I'm keen to have that often, so don't think I will be making the crossing every day - perhaps take up position under the bridge, and guard it from a troll's perspective. I like that.
Philosophically. Besides if someone was going to harm it, surely the foundations would be the place to concentrate on. Much harder to destroy from the roadway - although still possible - but the actual guards can take care of those threats. I'm here for metaphysical protection. Calling all pagan spirits, come to my aid.
The town history is fascinating, apparently in roman times there was a watch tower set up here, and then the power to hold markets was given in 1045 or so - crazy.

Heard again the melancholy Hungarian nationalist tune - although gyuri tells me it's more patriotic, and stems from the hungary tragedy of losing 65% of the empire from the past thousand years - and 4 million people who suddenly weren't living in Hungary anymore.
some kind of paris power plays going on with the czech politicians in the twenties, who wanted control of a particular river - but then it was no good for shipping anyway, as only knee deep. surely you'd check that!?

I had the idea to compose a celebratory, happy tune, symbolising the fluidity of movement and mobility that all these changing borders have not stopped - something about in-between places, and of course bridges - using the sounds i record on maria valeria (or marie-valerie in slovakian) and beam this out from loudspeakers on the highest place I can get to, some time towards the end of my residency. and invite some media and sound artists from Budapest also to come and play at the concert gyuri wants me to have.

quite excited about learning 'processing' (open source software to manipulate sound and images) now at the 'next' (new hungarian media art centre) workshop - want to make a program for people to play bridges visually. you'll see what I mean when I do it :)

but for now, have to prepare for ljubljana in the morning. some pressure from my vj to practice - I appreciate the concern, and effort and energy - but really much prefer to work in a fluid, improv style.
although maybe giving myself a break this time and pre-preparing some of the transitions and sound layers. we'll see. plenty of time on the train....

inventory of currency:

GPB 84
AUD 2.75
SKK 690
HUF 11,391

protection. mental physical emotional metaphysical spiritual
when was the last time you were in actual danger?
how did you protect yourself
do you imagine the world is ever safe?
what forms of threat do you fear the most
how can you overcome fear

I always remember that morcheeba song -love and fear
fear stops your love
love stops your fear

maybe I am here to love the bridge
it's all very new - soaking in the town's atmosphere
I feel like a cultural explorer
staying in one place is the adventure