TRAVEL DIARY

A weblog regularly updated by Jodi Rose.

Sunday, November 13, 2005

8:15 AM
Posted by jodi rose

cooked breakfast - the cafes only serve coffee and cake, the pub beer and chips and the concept of eating out for breakfast is very foreign - scrambled eggs with mushrooms and tomato, and bes kaffeina in the filter percolator - there is a big fancy coffee machine but I definitely need lessons to drive it.
showed philippa the town, wandered along the pedestrian zone for about a minute then dragged her into a shoe shop (no unwillingly I might add) to check out the dr scholl pink tweed slippers I have been coveting. sadly not in my size but we found a magnificent pair of furry boots for her - and further down the road a fabulous green (fake) fur coat. I tried a full length black wool jacket with enormous fur cuffs and collar - very cruella de ville but will wait and see if its needed.
decided not to walk to hungary today - went and lay in the hot baths instead. bridge guard before me seems to not like the heated pools, and the groups of people chatting in them, she was glad to find a cold swimming pool in esztergom. but I'm fantastically happy to just float around, surrounded by groups of local people talking and playing.
the usual number of people were there when we arrived - 5 or 6 in the outside pool, a few more inside - but after our massages (based on meridian points, every single one of them hurt) around 4pm the place had filled up. really lovely mix of older people, kids with their parents, and by 4.30 the teenage boys and girls in separate groups, starting their saturday night courting early. really appreciate a culture where people are immersed in hot water on a saturday afternoon, not at the pokies or chasing a ball around a field (that comes later).
drifted home, baked vegetables and a strangely textured tarte swisse - the apples good pastry awful have to check my measurements - and then out to see a film at the cinema. only half a block away in the pesia zona. was a little worried as when i tried to see the wedding crashers, told they needed 8 people to run it, and only the three staff, myself and one other girl showed up. philippa offered to buy all 8 tickets, or indeed the cinema which wasn't necessary - there was assigned seating, and around twenty people there - the movie started right on 7, so we just made it. monster in law, jane fonda the fabulous psycho mother who doesn't want her son marrying a temp dogwalker, michael vartan didn't have much to do but look gorgeous and lovable which he managed to perfection, and jlo in her usual role as sweet but feisty girl from the wrong side of the tracks with a good heart - she was impossibly perky and happy and cute. but it was fun.
walked down by the river to visit my bridge and see the basilica at night - but the lights went off just as we got down there.
had a drink in the green pub - total culture shock, it was full of groovy kids wearing art school cord jackets and scarves, unruly teenagers out the back in black leather who left early (to smoke bongs and listen to nirvana records at someones house, we guessed), a young musician eagerly soaking up the wisdom of his older, ponytailed friend discussing the finer points of pink floyd's 'the wall' in great detail; and a big group of people there for the soccer (football in these parts) which started at 10. joined dani and his girlfriend uisha (sorry if I spell your name wrong) to watch the game - philippa went to a couple when she worked on the soap in bratislava, one against the celtics which slovakia won 5 nil, and another against serbia who threw flares onto the pitch. spain were in front 2 nil at half time when we left.

it's incredible what a difference it makes having a good friend here, especially someone who understands the area and can give me some useful advice, a few words (please and thank you which i forgot already), and enjoy the luxurious thermal baths and apartment with me. somehow it all feels quite normal, we could be back in hotham st but there's a basilica across the road and everyone speaks slovak and hungarian. I can't wait for the snow, but apparently it doesn't come until after christmas. Just need some pine needle cordial for my winter hibernation (see moomintroll midwinter) and a big furry coat.
I feel like it's possible to slip into the life here quite easily - especially from my privileged position as bridge guard, which carries a certain level of visibility - people say, ah you're the new bridge guard! - and responsibility with it, but have been told also not to be too strict.
It's a time for reflection, soaking in the place, seeing how things evolve, and making connections with people.
Feel that I really need to do some baking and cooking, like I have all these raw materials collected but need some recipes to really bring out the flavours. And knitting too - good practice for loose ends, creating something beautiful and warm out of disparate strands.
The last few years have been so focused outwards, constant travel, generating ideas and energy, this is a really perfect chance to let things settle a bit, filter through, consolidate and recharge.
Wshing I had brought shama's landscape and memory, really need to read the chapter on water, but have Claudio migris' treatise on the danube so that is a start on philosophy and culture.
Off to Hungary this morning, then train to bratislava where philippa has promised to introduce me to her friends and the giant tiramisu at cafe cafe. We also visit the bridge with a bar on top - which has sadly just been renovated, we'll check out the damage - the original kitsch was so wonderful.